Family Backpacking the HOT Grand Canyon

Sunrise on South Kaibab

Dear B & V,

Since you were little we've been checking off the national parks on our family bucket list. Our vacations to these spectacular landscapes are more than a check mark on a list but our family immersion into the natural history and resources each park offers.

Early in July 2017, we flew to Las Vegas, our jumping point for a 16-day road trip to the national parks in the southwest: Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Escalante, Canyonlands, Arches, Mesa Verde and the Grand Canyon. We had never experienced Las Vegas for which we all agreed was a shit show of humanity. It is unlikely we will ever return. Of course unless you decide to as an adult.

Delicate Arch - Arches National Park

Part of our immersion is to camp in the parks. We have traditionally thrown the bare-minimum camping necessities in an extra large duffel bag and played the first-come-first serve game at the park campgrounds. It's always worked in the past; however, we had close calls this time grabbing the last sites in Zion and the Grand Canyon.

It was purposeful that the Grand Canyon was the last stop on the great southwest tour. Our plan was to snag a last minute backcountry permit and backpack into the Canyon. Ever since you were little, I always schedule backpacking for last: one to acclimatize us to elevation and to increase our endurance. Thank goodness we hiked more than 60 miles the prior 10 days in hot temperatures because you said, "It prepared us for the most grueling hike ever." This preparation also allowed me to observe how your bodies and minds responded to heat and your need for water, sodium and potassium.

One of 100+ switchbacks on South Kaibab Trail

Half way!

We arrived at the backcountry information office to receive a last minute permit (we've always had good luck with last minute permits) into the Canyon with a plan to descend the South Kaibab trail, stay at the Bright Angel campground, ascend half way on the Bright Angel trail to camp at Indian Gardens and a final ascent of the most difficult part of the Bright Angel on the last day. While we had been physically preparing for this hike, the ranger did her due diligence to give us parents the information and warnings we needed about leave no trace and the dangers of heat (a person was medevac by helicopter the day we hiked into the Canyon due to heat stroke).

In dusk light at our Desert View campsite, we prepped our food, assembled our gear and stuffed our packs for a 3:00 am wake-up call to hit the South Kaibab at first light while it was still cool. Do you remember the awe-inspired thoughts you expressed when you saw the canyon walls basked in a golden light that accentuated the amber and sienna hues of the rock? Do you remember how your legs felt halfway down the South Kaibab trail? I specifically remember the knee-whencing, quad-quivering trail but also the colorful palette and expanding landscapes at every turn in its hundred plus switchbacks. Don't forget to cut your toenails the ranger reminded us - thank god we did!

You both predicted the hike down would be so easy. However, I warned otherwise. We all were so happy to see the 100-year old wrought iron bridge span the Colorado with the surprise tunnel; this meant level ground for our lactic acid thighs and calves. By the time we reached the river, it was HOT. By late afternoon, the campground thermometer read 115 degrees! We were ecstatic to see the sparkling stream next to the campground. I remember how all four of us exclaimed with excitement when our skin touched the cold water and provided respite from the heat. It soothed our aching muscles and feet and the riffles massaged our bodies. We spent the whole day in the stream, as did everyone else camping.

Relief from 115 degrees

We thought we picked a shady campsite where we placed our tents beneath a short but stocky cottonwood. However, we moved the picnic table around the site to escape the sun's rays. Finally at 4:00 pm, the sun moved behind the canyon wall. However, it had been baking the stone all day that its heat reverberated back at us not providing much relief. We had never experienced this intense heat before and you couldn't wait to leave it behind.

That evening, you talked about hiking the whole way out of the Canyon the next day. I imparted that we are only as strong as our weakest person. We could not make that decision to hike out until we assessed our bodies and minds at Indian Gardens.

The ranger at Phantom Ranch advised us to leave at dawn to ascend the Canyon. Not taking her advice, we were one of the last to leave at 7:00 am. Sunrise was 5:22 am. It was already hot by 7:00 am but thankfully much of the hike to Indian Gardens was through a narrow canyon. We reached Indian Gardens by 9:30 am and took an hour break: soaked our feet in the stream, ate food, drank water and assessed our bodies and minds. We were all feeling good to ascend 3,000+ feet in 4.5 miles in 90-100 degree temps. As a team, we made a plan: stop for a breathe in patches of shade when anyone calls for one, stick to a slow, methodical pace, look back to marvel at how far we'd come and take long breaks at each 1.5 miles to eat salty foods, refill water and add electrolytes, go pee (super important to still be peeing), sit and rest and soak our shirts and hats with water.

Looking back!

Are we there yet?

Throughout the hike up, you made goals to reach the rim. Finally after reaching all but one, you were within a few switchbacks. The preverbal light-at-the-end-of-the-tunnel put a skip in your step and a boast of mental energy to carry your bodies and packs above the rim. As dad and I ascended the last switchback, you called for us and waved from above. A chocolate milkshake never tasted so good!

How did we smile (or not frown too much) on our HOT backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon? Team work, creating a plan, being flexibility and adaptable when the plan didn't work, being positive and most importantly supporting the weakest person on the team, even if it was me. Well, I did carry the heaviest pack!

Love & peace,
Mom

Chocolate milkshakes anyone?